I haven't installed this yet but it looks as though it'll be a perfect fit for my frame that has a seat tube clamp with a very narrow gap where the binder bolt goes through. A more conventional type hanger is to thick to use for this purpose. I am doing a center pull brake conversion on a classic 531 frame to show off my Universal 61's.

It works!

I rebuilt, and upgraded, a 1996 Trek 930. I wanted to keep the brake line in housing, instead of the exposed lines of yesteryear. The Surly hanger allowed me to bypass Trek's weird noodle. Worked perfectly!

For more than 10 years I have been using one of these on a 1980s Japanese made touring bike with cantilever brakes and I can't imagine anything better. The webpage photo showing one mounted on a bike is all you really need to know. As shown, it loops over the seat binder bolt and the thin 2mm stainless steel wire should fit even very tight clearances between seat lug ears. Barrel adjuster is a nice added feature and easily accepts at least a 5.5 mm cable housing or ferule. Because of the thin wire frame, I can easily grip and turn the mainly unobstructed adjuster with my fingertips. Length of the hanger is greater than any others I have found. This is good for ensuring a cable housing is not forced to bend too tightly around a seatpost (which is often a nuisance with most short drop older or modern hangers - especially if they include adjusters!). The loose hanging loop is virtually self-centering which for me provides a clean line for efficient frictionless cable pull from my cantilever brakes. No need to spend big money for a Nitto or Rene Herse hanger; this works better than those or any others I have ever seen or used. If aesthetics matters (it does for me), the thin wire frame almost disappears rather than drawing unnecessary attention like a bulky old steel or alloy hanger.

My new frame did not have a built in cable hanger. This works perfectly.